“The bravest are surely those who have the clearest vision
of what is before them, glory and danger alike, and yet not withstanding go out
to meet it.”
As someone who has recently picked up and moved herself as
far away as geographically possible on a one-way ticket down under, I’d have to
say the most common and frequent word I hear these days is “brave.”
Whether it is a complete stranger curious about what bought
me to Australia, or my very best friend in any one of her constant WhatsAp
reminders, it always strikes a chord deep within me. “Brave.” … “You’re so
brave!” … “That takes such bravery.” … I never understood the word choice, at least
not in my particular context. What is so brave about wanting to do something
and simply doing it? Everyone keeps asking me why I moved to Australia, or
Wollongong, and no matter how many times I respond with ‘because I just wanted
to!’ it doesn’t seem to get my intentions across.
Maybe the word doesn’t sit right with me because of the way it
is defined (and maybe that’s an English teacher thing): to act courageously,
not deterred by fear, danger or pain. Travel doesn’t scare me. Packing my life into one single bag and flying nearly
10,000 miles away from home with no job, no house, no real contacts, no plan,
it doesn’t evoke even a single ounce of fear in me. I don’t believe living out
of a bag, pond-hopping, or inventing brand new lives for myself every few
months or years is dangerous. There
has never been anything in any of my worldly adventures which caused me pain, and if I ever started to feel
that, it is literally as simple as packing up and moving on once again. None of
this makes me brave, because I can’t think of a single thing that might deter
me from this wandering path.
I think there may have been other things in my life I have
done which I might have considered brave… I moved out when I was 18 years old,
and never returned to live with or depend on my parents for longer than a
handful of months between travels; even through university I made my own
independent life throughout my summers, sometimes choosing to live completely
alone. But I’m not sure that made me brave, maybe just more self-sufficient.
I moved home from England and quit my very first fulltime
teaching job. At first glance that may make me seem weak or foolish. Maybe it
does make me those things. My life there just didn’t make me happy enough, so I
ended it. But even that wasn’t about being brave, it was simply about being
smart and being selfish and putting my happiness and my mental well-being
first.
A couple of years back, I lost someone very special to me. His
mere existence had the strongest effect on me for years. Being in his presence
was powerful and dangerous and magnificent; all-encompassing. And then one day,
wandering through Trafalgar Square in London, England, I got the news from back
home that he had suddenly passed. Those were the hardest days, the toughest
months, at points & times through that first year especially, life seemed
impossible. I think maybe something in there made me braver. But I’m still not
really sure what…
The notion simply puzzles me. I can’t understand what makes
an exciting life a brave one. Or why chasing your dreams has to be correlated
with conquering fears and challenging danger. Why does living free-spiritually
even require courage? And what exactly is
the appropriate, gracious response when people call you that big B-word?
Especially when you feel like an absolute phony for accepting it as some sort
of ill-placed compliment.
And then yesterday, for the first time in my whole
recollection of life, I felt the strongest surge of bravery. I felt fear, I
felt danger, I felt consequence, I felt intimidation, and I felt uncertainty …
but I never felt panic. And in that, in that moment yesterday, in my lack of
alarm, I felt so clearly and
distinctly brave. I have never felt
this before, and it overtook me even more strongly than the massive wave that
was roaring towards me about to break right overtop of me: the very thing that
inspired this feeling.
The only way I can describe surfing is that it is a sport
for the brave. As someone who was never keen
on swimming, or being under the water, or large underwater mammals, I feel
exceptionally brave for taking on this newest of hobbies. But again, I never
went into it thinking it would make me brave! I knew I loved the lifestyle, I
loved the workout of it, I loved the feel-good, easy-riding, free-spirit vibes
I got from every surfer I’d met here so far. It felt natural for me, and I’ve
picked it up quite impressively for a newbie!
But it wasn’t until a few lessons in, waves heaps bigger and
faster, relentless, restless, that I began to realize the sheer immensity of
the ocean. And yes, that sounds silly and naïve, but you don’t actually
understand just how wild that water is, how completely uncontrollable and even
unpredictable it can be, until you are smack-dab in the middle of it and there
is nothing out there to protect you from what force it might have over you. One
minute it is rolling waves, the next it is approaching its break so hard and so
fast over your board and the only shot you’ve got to avoid how dangerously
strong that crash can be is to paddle directly into that oncoming, surmounting,
swelling wall of water. And I’ll tell you, this is no easy task. It is literally
a beast; I don’t know how else to describe it.
With the perfect approaching wave, when you know you’ve no
time to flip and catch its ride, you have about 3 nanoseconds to remind
yourself of two things: 1) there is absolutely not a single way to avoid this.
This is your exact current moment: it is coming, you cannot change or escape
what is about to happen to you in the next mere seconds. It is what it is.
There is nothing else to do but accept that and take what’s coming (and in this
particular nanosecond, you are always anticipating the worst). And 2) take the
deepest breath you have ever inhaled. And then you just let it hit you, you let
it crash on over you, you let it drag you under, you let it wrestle with your
body and your board and the leash connecting those two things. You take that heavy
slap of water to the face, no matter how hard you try to push yourself up over
the wave, you let it conquer you; you succumb to total, disillusioned, temporarily-disoriented
defeat.
And then you wipe your eyes and you spit the salt and you
simply continue on paddling outwards, further from the shore, deeper into the growing,
growling, rumbling distant ripples, and you wait for the next round of you vs.
mother nature (already knowing its outcome). You get your belly back on that
board and you keep on pushing yourself out, again and again, day after day.
I reckon that is
bravery.